Facebook-f Instagram Youtube

Workbench Build

Picture of Cristy Gies

Cristy Gies

Designer and Founder - DIYGirlfriend

What is one of our best tools when working on a project? Our custom workbench.

A workbench will help you keep your tools and supplies organized and give you a great workspace for your projects.

There are many workbenches for you to purchase and they all come with a hefty price tag. The less expensive benches do not have drawers or any storage. They are simply a table with metal legs that set in a fixed place. The more heavy-duty workbenches are often metal and vary in size. The metal benches are more of a toolbox and often have wheels so you can move them easily but can cost up into the thousands of dollars. Trying to select the best one for you can be overwhelming.

In this tutorial we are going to show you how to make your own workbench. Building your own allows you to make it specific to your needs. The workbench we will be building includes drawers built perfectly to hold your tools and other essential supplies. The deep drawers allow you to easily access the tools you need. The top of this workbench will provide a great place for you to work without having to bending over. It also has caster wheels which allows you to move your workbench easily throughout your work area.

Let’s Get Started.

Here is What you will need:

Materials:

  • Three 2”x4”x10’ pieces of wood (for base)
  • For this project we calculated for a 36”hx24”dx36”w workbench
  • 1/8” plywood for drawer(s) base cut according to the LxWxD of the base of each drawer
  • ¼” plywood for sides and back of workbench cut according to the LxWxD of sides and back of workbench
  • ½” plywood for base of workbench cut according to LxWxD of the base of workbench
  • ¾” cabinet grade plywood (We used Poplar) cut according to LxH needed for front face of workbench drawers
  • 1” bys based on how deep you want the drawers
  • Four 1"x4"x10' (for shallow hand tool drawers)"
  • Two 1"x6"x10' (for smaller size drill drawer and drawer facing)
  • One 1"x10"x10' (for large drawer)
  • One 1"x8"x4' (for drawer facing)
  • One 1"x12"x4' (for drawer facing)
  • Three 1"x2"x6' pieces of wood for facing. If larger facing is needed substitute 1"x2" with 1"3" wood.
  • Four 1/4" x 2"x 4' poplar trim
  • 4 caster wheels (2 locking for front and 2 regular casters for back)
  • Drawer slides for each drawer in the workbench based on weight of drawer
  • Sanding block
  • Steel wool
  • Wood glue
  • Clear caulk (optional)
  • Paint or stain of your choice
  • Polyurethane (if desired)
  • Countertop of your choice
  • Countertop edging
  • Four 2” angle brackets
  • 2.5” wood screws
  • 1” cabinet screws (for countertop)
  • Drawer handles of your choice
  • Drawer liner of your choice (optional)

Tools:

  • Toolbelt
  • Drill and drill bits
  • Impact drill and drill bits
  • Miter saw
  • Table saw and push stick/block
  • Jigsaw
  • Handheld circular saw
  • Brad nail gun or hammer
  • Staple gun and ½” staples
  • Measuring tape
  • Carpenter square
  • Speed square
  • Pencil
  • 24” level
  • 24” and 36” wood clamps
  • 90 degree corner clamps
  • Work gloves
  • Safety glasses

You can find these items in any local home improvement store. At the bottom of this article we have provided some links to make locating these items easier.

Watch the video below to get started on your workbench.

Or you can follow the step-by-step instructions below.

Step 1: Build the workbench base

  • Build base frame
  • Cut 2 2x4’s into 4 pieces: 21”, 21”, 36” and 36”
  • Using corner clams and 36” clamps, secure pieces together and then screw the 4 pieces together using the 2.5” wood screws with the shorter sides being the sides and longer pieces being the front/back. Make sure all sides are square and level.
  • Put casters on the base workbench
  • Attach 2 lockable casters on the front
  • Attach 2 regular casters on the back
  • Make sure base is level and square
  • Attach vertical 2x4 side posts
  • Cut 4, 2x4’s the specific height needed for your preference allowing for the height of the casters and the countertop. For this workbench the vertical 2x4’s are 29.5” high. NOTE: Sometimes casters will be different sizes or measure differently if they are from different manufacturers. Be sure and measure each caster to make sure you allow for the exact height.
  • Attach vertical 2x4’s to the base frame.
  • Using clamps and a scrap 2x4 for support, align vertical 2x4’s with the 4” side attaching to the SIDE of the base frame. Screw in with 2.5” wood screws. This vertical 2x4 will later be used to attach the drawer slides so needs the 4” side to secure the slides.
  • Repeat this step with the other vertical 2x4’s making sure each vertical is level along the way.
  • Cut and attach the top frame
  • Cut 2, 2x4’s into 4 pieces: 21”, 21”, 36” and 36”
  • Using corner clams and 36” clamps, secure pieces together and then screw the 4 pieces together using the 2.5” wood screws. Make sure all sides are square and level.
  • Using clamps, attach the top frame to the 4, 2x4” verticals using 2.5” screws. Make sure top frame continues to be square and level.

DIYG Tip: Keep a 24” level handy throughout this project and continuously check to make sure each piece is level or in the end, the drawers will not function properly.

Step 2: Measure, cut and attach 1/2" plywood base, sides and back.

  • Measure, cut and attach the bottom support base according to your base’s measurements
  • For this project the measurements are 36”wx24”l for the base
  • Using a table saw, cut the bottom support base according to the measurements
  • Because of the vertical support posts, measure and cut out the corners with a jigsaw to fit around the vertical posts.
  • Using clamps, attach the base and corners and secure with wood glue and a brad nail gun
  • If needed for additional support, use 2.5” wood screws to further secure the base
  • Measure, cut and attach the sides and back
  • For this project the side measurements are 22.125” by 32.875”
  • Using a table saw, cut the sides according to the measurements
  • Using clamps, attach the sides and secure with wood glue and a brad nail gun

DIYG Tip:

If you don’t have a table saw you can rent one from Home Depot.  You can also ask Home Depot or Lowe’s to cut the wood according to your measurements if you bought the wood there.

DIYG Safety Tip: 

When using a table saw, NEVER stand behind the table saw.  The wood can get bound in the saw and kick the wood back toward you resulting in serious injury and even death! Always stand to the side of the wood and push it through with a push block NOT your hands.

Step 3: Build Drawers

  • Plan: Decide how many dawers you need and how deep they need to be.
  • Measure the front opening of your base. This base is 22” tall by 30” wide.
  • Determine drawer width: All drawers will be the same width so subtract out the width needed for your slides based on the dimensions of your slides. For this workbench, the slides are .5” on both sides so my drawers will be 29” wide (30”-.5”-.5”)
  • Determine length: All drawers will be the same length so measure from the back to the front edge of the front 2x4. The depth for this workbench is 21”.
  • Determine number and depth of drawers needed: This will vary depending on the purpose of each drawer. For this workbench I needed a deep drawer for my power tools and at least 1 shallow drawer for hand tools. My deep drawer needed to be at least 8” for my power tools. Based on that, I was able to get two 3” shallow drawers for my hand tools. Here is the logic:
  • 22” of height to work with – (minus) 9” deep drawer (8” drawer + 1” drawer facing) = 13” remaining to work with.
  • 13” – 4.5” shallow drawer (3.5” + 1” drawer facing) = 8.5” which gives me room for another drawer
  • 8.5” – 4.5” shallow drawer = 4” remaining which will need to be used for top and bottom clearance and .5” clearance between drawers.
  • 4” - .5” between drawers for clearance (2 drawers x .5”) = 3” remaining
  • With the remaining 3” I need to allow for the top and bottom facing so I just cut it in half and allowed for 1.5” at the top and 1.5” at the bottom.

DIYG Tip:

  • Even though a piece of wood may say 1”x4” they are rounding up.  Usually it is actually .75”x3.5” so take that into consideration when you are planning your drawers and buying your wood.
  • When figuring your drawers and drawer spacing, use colored painter’s tape and cut the tape to the exact size of the drawers.  You can then move the tape around on the face of the 2×4 front to get the look and spacing you want before you mark where the drawers will go.
  • Build the sides of the drawers
  • Cut 1” bys according to dimensions needed for the front, back and both sides. For this workbench we used 1”x4”s and 1”x8” and made the drawers 29” wide and 21” in length.
  • Using a square, level, clamp and corner clamps, attach the front board to the side boards making sure the corners are perfectly square and the top is level.
  • Using a square, level and corner clamps, attach the back board to the side boards making sure the corners are perfectly square and the top remains level.
  • Double check all corners to make sure they are perfectly square and adjust if needed.
  • Once all corners are perfectly square and everything is level, predrill holes in all corners.
  • Double check all corners to make sure they are perfectly square and level, then drill 2.5” wood screws into the predrilled holes.
  • Double check all corners to make sure they are perfectly square and adjust if needed.
  • Build the base of the drawers
  • Measure and cut 1x2” supports for the bottom of the drawer.
  • Glue and brad nail supports to the bottom sides of the drawer.
  • Measure inside of drawer and cut 1/8” plywood for the bottom of each drawer
  • Glue and staple plywood bottom to supports using ½” staples. Make sure the staples go into the supports!
  • NOTE: drawer bottoms can also be made by cutting a dado groove (horizonal line) in side of drawer and inserting the plywood in the groove. Because tools are so heavy we chose to use 1”x2” supports on the bottom of each drawer instead.

Step 4: Measure and attach drawer slides by following manufacturer's directions.

  • Attach slide to side of drawer(s) by following manufacturer's directions
  • Attach slide to 2x4 in the base workbench by following manufacturer's directions
  • Measure, cut, glue and attach drawer facings
  • Based on the plan in step 3a, iv – measure and cut drawer facing out of cabinet quality plywood. Make the drawer facing ½” larger than the front of the drawer on all sides. This can be increased or decreased according to individual preference, but drawers should at least have ¼” between the facings so they do not rub when opening and closing. Sand down any rough edges with sanding block.
  • Using wood glue, glue the facing to the front of the drawer making sure drawer is evenly spaced ½” all the way around.
  • Secure drawer facing in place by drilling in 1” screws from backside of drawer front. For larger, heavier drawers more screws will be needed.

Step 5: Measure, cut, glue and attach workbench facing.

  • Once drawers are in place and sliding properly, determine the width and length needed for workbench facing to give it a finished look.
  • Measure and cut 1”x2” wood for top facing according to length and width needed
  • Measure and cut 1”x2” wood for bottom facing according to length and width needed
  • Measure and cut 1”x2” wood for facing between each drawer according to length and width needed
  • Lay the cut wood on floor exactly how it will be attached to the workbench frame and double check measurements and positioning
  • Using wood glue, glue top and bottom horizonal facing to the two vertical facings making sure all edges are flush. Gently clamp together and verify the length/width is correct by holding it up to the workbench. If not, adjust accordingly. Once positioned correctly, staple joints with ½” staples from the backside of facing.
  • Repeat this step for each piece of facing between the drawers.
  • Position the finished facing on the front of the workbench and secure to 2”x4”s with wood glue and brad nails.

Step 6: Measure cut and Glue facing trim on drawers

  • Measure the length and height of the drawer facing
  • Measure and cut the ¼”x2” popular trim according to the dimensions in 6a. Set the miter saw at a 45 degree angle and cut one end 45 degrees to the right and one 45 degrees to the left
  • Apply wood glue to trim pieces and use clamps to hold the pieces to the drawers until the glue is dry
  • Optional: to further secure the trim, you can brad nail it to the drawer facing.

Step 7: Finish and paint/stain workbench

  • Fill in all countersunk screws, nail holes or gaps in trim with stainable wood fill.
  • Sand workbench and all drawers with 110 grit sandpaper until smooth. Then switch to 220 grit sandpaper to finish. Wipe off any remaining sawdust.
  • Apply clear caulk to all joints and corners and any small gaps between wood and allow to dry.
  • Paint workbench and all drawers inside and out. Allow to dry according to directions on paint. Lightly sand after paint dries and apply second coat if needed. We used steel wool to sand instead of sand paper to not scratch the paint.
  • Once paint dries, lightly sand down any rough spots with steel wool. Wipe off any remaining sawdust.
  • Optional: Apply polyurethane to workbench and drawers inside and out. Allow to dry according to directions on can. Lightly sand when dry and apply second coat if needed.
  • Once polyurethane dries, lightly sand down any rough spots with steel wool. Wipe off any remaining sawdust.

DIYG Tip:

  • For an added pop of color, measure, cut and apply drawer liner for each drawer

Step 8: Attach drawer handles according to manufacturer's directions.

  • Based on the handle you chose, position the handle on the face of the drawers and mark screw holes.
  • Predrill holes for screws.
  • Attach drawer handles by drilling in screws from the back of the drawer facing.
  • Pull on drawer handle several times to make sure it is secure.

Step 9: Measure, cut and attach countertop.

  • Measure the length of the workbench and add 4” for overhang on the right and left sides. For this workbench we used a kitchen countertop so it was already 25” wide. If you are not using a pre-cut counter top, measure the width you need and cut the countertop accordingly. 24”-26” is usually the width of a standard workbench but can be adjusted based on preference.
  • With the help of a friend, use a table saw to cut the countertop according to the measurements needed. Be sure and use all safety gear and safety standards because a countertop can be tricky and dangerous!

DIYG Tip:

  • For a smoother cut, apply painters tape at the cut and cut the countertop from the underneath side.  This will prevent too many chips in the finished side.
  • If needed, use a fine sanding block to smooth out any rough edges.
  • Attach the counter top to the workbench using the 2” angle brackets
  • Attach four 2" angle brackets to the 2"x4" top frame with wood screws.
  • Clamp countertop to the workbench on all 4 sides
  • From underneath the workbench, attach the underside of the countertop using 1” screws. (Measure countertop width to make sure the screws will not go through the countertop.) Make sure the angle bracket is flush with the top of the workbench before attaching.
  • Measure the sides of the countertop raw edges and cut countertop edging + 1” Attach the edging according to manufacturer directions. Trim off any access with a box cutter. Make sure the blade is sharp for a better cut.
  • Using a file and fine sanding block, file off any rough edges. Make sure you file in ONE direction. Otherwise, the edging could tear or detach.

Step 10: Add tools and ENJOY!

Below are the supplies we used in our Workbench build:

Share:

Leave a Reply

On Key

Related Posts

Share this:

Like this:

Like Loading...

Discover more from DIYGirlfriend

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading