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Miter Saw Workbench

Cristy Gies

Cristy Gies

Designer and Founder - DIYGirlfriend

To complement our workbenches tutorial, we are going to show you how to make a movable miter saw workbench.

This cabinet fits in-between the DIYG workbenches, highlighted in our work bench tutorial, and is constructed to hold a miter saw. The miter saw workbench will be shorter than the 2 workbenches so that it is the perfect height to make clean cuts.

Building a stand or bench for your saw will allow you to be more efficient and accurate, which is something that is valuable to any shop or project. This cabinet also gives you more storage for your tools and other items.

Why build when you can buy? A manufactured miter saw stand can cost hundreds of dollars while building your own can save you some money and it is completely customizable. This Allows you to modify it to suit your needs. The best part? The pride you will have knowing you built it yourself.

Let’s get started!

Here is What you will need:

Materials:

For this project we calculated for a 33”hx24”dx36”w workbench

  • Three 2”x4”x10’ pieces of wood (for base)
  • ¼” plywood for sides and back of workbench cut according to the LxWxD of sides and back of workbench
  • ½” plywood for base of workbench cut according to LxWxD of the base of workbench
  • ¾” cabinet grade plywood (We used Poplar) cut according to LxH needed for doors
  • One 1”x2”x6’ piece of wood for facing
  • One 1”x3”x6’ piece of wood for facing
  • Three ¼” x 2” x 4’ poplar trim pieces to trim out the doors (optional)
  • 4 caster wheels (2 locking for front and 2 regular casters for back)
  • Sanding block
  • Wood glue
  • Wood fill
  • Clear caulk (optional)
  • Paint or stain of your choice
  • Polyurethane (optional)
  • Countertop of your choice with matching edging
  • Four 2” angle brackets
  • 2.5” wood screws
  • 1” cabinet screws (for countertop)
  • Four 3” screws, washers and bolts (to secure the miter saw)
  • Door handle or knob of your choice

Tools:

  • DIYG Toolbelt!!
  • Drill and drill bits
  • Impact drill and drill bits
  • Miter saw
  • Table saw and push stick/block
  • Jigsaw
  • Handheld circular saw
  • Brad nail gun or hammer
  • Measuring tape
  • Speed square
  • Framing square
  • Pencil
  • 24” level
  • 24” and 36” wood clamps
  • 90 degree corner clamps
  • Work gloves
  • Safety glasses

You can find these items in any local home improvement store. At the bottom of this article we have provided some links to make locating these items easier.

Watch the video below to get started on your miter saw workbench.

Or you can follow the step-by-step instructions below.

Step 1: Build your workbench base

Build base frame

  • Cut 2 2x4’s into 4 pieces: 21”, 21”, 36” and 36”
  • Using corner clams and 36” clamps, secure pieces together and then screw the 4 pieces together using the 2.5” wood screws with the shorter sides being the sides and longer pieces being the front/back. Make sure all corners and sides are square and level.
  • Put casters on the base workbench
  • Attach 2 lockable casters on the front
  • Attach 2 regular casters on the back
  • Make sure base is level and square

Attach vertical 2x4 side posts

  • Cut 4, 2x4’s the specific height needed for your preference allowing for the height of the casters and countertop. For this workbench the vertical 2x4’s are 29.5” high. NOTE: sometimes casters will be different sizes or measure differently if they are from different manufacturers. Be sure and measure each caster to make sure you allow for the exact height.
  • Attach vertical 2x4’s to the base frame.
  • Using clamps, align vertical 2x4’s with the 4” side attaching to the SIDE of the base frame. Screw in with three or four 2.5” wood screws.
  • Repeat this step with the other vertical 2x4’s making sure each vertical is level along the way.
  • Once all verticals are in place, turn base frome on the side and screw in the 4th caster screw into the vertical post base.

Cut and attach the top frame

  • Cut 2, 2x4’s into 4 pieces: 21”, 21”, 36” and 36”
  • Using corner clamps and 36” clamps, secure pieces together and then screw the 4 pieces together using the 2.5” wood screws. Make sure all sides are square and level.
  • Using clamps, attach the top frame to the 4, 2x4” verticals using 2.5” screws. Make sure top frame continues to be square and level.

DIYG Tip:

Keep a 24” level handy throughout this project and continuously check to make sure each piece is level.

Step 2: Measure, cut and attach ½” plywood base, sides and back

Measure, cut and attach the bottom support base according to your base’s measurements

  • For this project the measurements are 36”wx24”l for the base and 36”x32.875” for back
  • Using a table saw, cut the bottom support base according to the measurements
  • Because of the vertical support posts, measure and cut out the corners with a jigsaw to fit around the vertical posts.
  • Using clamps, attach the base and corners and secure with wood glue and a brad nail gun
  • If needed for additional support, use 2.5” wood screws to further secure the base

Measure, cut and attach the sides and back

  • For this project the side measurements are 22.125” by 32.875”
  • ii. Using a table saw, cut the sides according to the measurements
  • iii. Using clamps, attach the sides and secure with wood glue and a brad nail gun

DIYG Tip:

If you don’t have a table saw you can rent one from Home Depot.  You can also ask Home Depot or Lowe’s to cut the wood according to your measurements if you bought the wood there.

DIYG Safety Tip: 

When using a table saw, NEVER stand behind the table saw.  The wood can get bound in the saw and kick the wood back toward you resulting in serious injury and even death! Always stand to the side of the wood and push it through with a push block NOT your hands.

Step 3: Measure, cut, glue and attach workbench facing

  • Determine the length needed for workbench facing to give it a finished look.
  • Measure and cut 1”x2” wood for top facing according to length needed
  • Measure and cut 1”x2” wood for bottom facing according to length needed
  • Measure and cut 1”x3” wood for side facing according to the length needed
  • Position the 1”x3” side facings on the front of the workbench and secure to 2”x4” with wood glue and brad nails. Use clamps if needed to hold them in place while nailing.
  • Position the 1”x2” top and bottom facings on the front of the workbench and secure to 2”x4”s with wood glue and brad nails. Use clamps if needed to hold them in place while nailing.

Step 4: Measure, cut and attach workbench doors

  • Measure and cut ¾” cabinet grade plywood according to the width and height you need for doors. We used Poplar which has a nice grain to it.
  • For this workbench our doors will be 15”w x 18”l
  • Sand down any rough edges if needed
  • Attach cabinet hinges to the door frame according to manufacturer's direction. Make sure hinges are perfectly aligned and level with each other so your doors will be aligned and level.
  • Attach cabinet door to hinges according to manufacturer's direction. Make sure doors are perfectly aligned and level!
  • e. Test doors to make sure they open and close properly and are still level. Adjust if needed.

DIYG Tip:

Allow for ¼” gap between cabinet doors so they do not rub against each other over time.

Step 5: Measure, cut and Glue Facing Trim on Doors

  • Measure the length and height of the door facing
  • Measure and cut the ¼”x2” popular trim according to the dimensions in 5a with the mitar saw set at a 45 degree angle. Cut one end 45 degrees to the right and one 45 degrees to the left
  • Apply wood glue to the trim pieces and place on door front. Use clamps to hold the pieces to the doors until the glue dries.
  • If needed, fill any gaps with woodfill. Allow to dry and sand to a smooth finish.

Step 6: Finish and paint/stain workbench

  • Fill in all countersunk screws and any gaps with stainable wood fill.
  • Sand workbench and doors with 110 grit sandpaper until smooth. Then switch to 220 grit sandpaper to finish. Wipe off any remaining sawdust.
  • Paint workbench and doors inside and out. Allow to dry according to directions on paint. Lightly sand after paint dries with steel wool. Apply second coat if needed sanding with steel wool between coats once dry.
  • Once paint dries, lightly sand down any rough spots with steel wool. Wipe off any remaining sawdust.
  • Optional: Apply polyurethane to workbench and doors inside and out. Allow to dry according to directions on can. Lightly sand when dry with steel wool to sand down any rough spots. Wipe off any remaining sawdust.

Step 7: Attach door handles/knobs according to manufacturer's directions

  • Based on the handle you chose, position the handle on the face of the doors and mark screw holes.
  • Predrill holes for screws.
  • Attach door handles by drilling in screws from the back of the door and attaching the handle/knob to the screw on the front of the door. Tighten handle/knob to screw fully.
  • Pull on door handle several times to make sure it is secure.

Step 8: Measure, cut and attach countertop

  • Measure the length of the workbench and add 4” for overhang on the right and left sides. For this workbench we used a kitchen countertop so it was already 25” wide. If you are not using a pre-cut counter top, measure the width you need and cut the countertop accordingly. 24”-26” is usually the width of a standard workbench but can be adjusted based on preference.
  • With the help of a friend, use a handheld circular saw to cut the countertop according to the measurements needed. Be sure and use all safety gear and safety standards because a countertop can be tricky and dangerous!

DIYG Tip:

for a smoother cut, cut the countertop from the underneath side.  This will prevent too many chips in the finished side.

  • If needed, use a fine sanding block to smooth out any rough edges
  • Attach the counter top to the workbench using the 2” angle brackets
  • Attach 2 angle brackets to each side with 1” cabinet screws. Make sure angel brackets are flush with top of workbench.
  • Clamp countertop to the workbench on all 4 sides
  • From underneath the workbench, attach the 2” angle brackets to the countertop using 1” screws. (Measure countertop width to make sure the screws will not go through the countertop.)
  • Apply countertop edging to the raw edges according to manufacturer's direction. Measure the sides of the raw edges and cut countertop edging + 1” Attach the edging and trim off any access with a box cutter. Make sure the blade is sharp for a better cut.
  • Using a file and fine sanding block, file off any rough edges. Make sure you file in ONE direction. Otherwise, the edging could detach.

Step 9: Mount Miter Saw to workbench and ENJOY!

  • Since the miter saw is heavy and dangerous, it is a best practice to secure the miter saw to the miter saw workbench.
  • Position the miter saw where you want it taking into consideration the length between you and the saw blade. Make sure the position is comfortable for your reach and not too close to the blade.
  • With a pencil, mark where the holes are on the miter saw. Usually there are 4 holes to secure the miter saw with screws.
  • Predrill holes through the countertop to the underneath side. You’ll go all the way through the countertop.
  • Place miter saw on the workbench and insert the 3” screws through the miter saw and workbench.
  • From underneath side, attach the washers and bolts and tighten to firmly secure the miter saw to the workbench.

All that is left to do is to Organize your new miter saw workbench

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